• waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water...
    2 KB (225 words) - 19:04, 14 January 2024
  • gravity waves in deeper water have a larger phase speed than in shallower water. In contrast with the behavior of gravity waves, capillary waves (i.e. only...
    30 KB (3,374 words) - 02:45, 29 May 2024
  • Thumbnail for Shallow water equations
    The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the...
    37 KB (4,764 words) - 14:52, 24 May 2024
  • Shallow water may refer to: Waves and shallow water Shallow water equations Shallow water marine environment Shallow Water (album) Shallow Water, Kansas...
    405 bytes (74 words) - 03:44, 5 September 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wind wave
    in trochoidal wave theory. Wind waves are thus a combination of transversal and longitudinal waves. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth...
    49 KB (6,196 words) - 21:50, 31 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wave shoaling
    In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the...
    12 KB (1,265 words) - 08:42, 28 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Boussinesq approximation (water waves)
    the simulation of water waves in shallow seas and harbours. While the Boussinesq approximation is applicable to fairly long waves – that is, when the...
    20 KB (2,509 words) - 19:27, 25 December 2022
  • of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is...
    12 KB (1,375 words) - 20:33, 29 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Breaking wave
    because wave heights are amplified in the region of shallower water (because the group velocity is lower there). See also waves and shallow water. There...
    10 KB (1,280 words) - 00:05, 1 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wave base
    wave. (e.g. ) Upper shoreface — above wave base Lower shoreface — below wave base Airy wave theory Dispersion (water waves) Waves and shallow water R...
    3 KB (429 words) - 13:56, 29 October 2023