waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water...

The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the...

gravity waves in deeper water have a larger phase speed than in shallower water. In contrast with the behavior of gravity waves, capillary waves (i.e. only...

Shallow water may refer to: Waves and shallow water Shallow water equations Shallow water marine environment Shallow Water (album) Shallow Water, Kansas...

in trochoidal wave theory. Wind waves are thus a combination of transversal and longitudinal waves. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth...

In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the...

the simulation of water waves in shallow seas and harbours. While the Boussinesq approximation is applicable to fairly long waves – that is, when the...

of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is...

because wave heights are amplified in the region of shallower water (because the group velocity is lower there). See also waves and shallow water. There...

wave. (e.g. ) Upper shoreface — above wave base Lower shoreface — below wave base Airy wave theory Dispersion (water waves) Waves and shallow water R...